On 17th January 2012, I made my first journey of the New Year to a sacred place, created by Parashurama, that intrepid Rishi of Hindu mythology, known as Udupi. Purpose of my visit was to witness the grand celebration of handing over of the right to perform puja to the idol of Sri Krishna by one of the eight heads of Mutts of Udupi every two years in rotation.

The shorter road to Udupi from Mysore is via Madikeri, Kodagu. However, right now the work on expressway is going on from Madikeri to Mangalore and hence the road is not motorable in many places and takes longer to reach the destination. I took this wrong road while going but returned via Hassan. The road surprisingly is good and safe. Even the ghat section, which was bad and in a state of total neglect is now restored. Only time will tell how long it will last. The first sign of Sri Krishna's grace on me was in my decision to take this road on my return journey!

This is my second visit to Udupi Sri Krishna Mutt (Temple). First was in early '80s. The roads in Udupi and around the temple were narrow, badly paved, dirty. The Kalyani (the sacred tank used for ablutions by Brahmins and the lay devotees) was full of algae and flotsams. In short, dirty. Wondered how could one take a dip here and claim to be cleansed.

The famous “Kanakana Kindi” was the centre of attraction for me. After all, the first miracle of Sri Krishna of Udupi can be seen through this “Kanakana Kindi” (mini window of Kanaka) even today. The legend says that Kanakadasa, a poet - saint belonging to Kuruba community, was not allowed entry into the temple by the Brahmins.

Kanakadasa, who could not collect a crowd of his community people to protest or sit on a protest fast like in the present day, did the next best act. He went to the rear of the temple, stood behind the wall of the sanctum sanctorum and being a poet sang the glory of Lord Krishna. He sang so passionately and with such total devotion, the miracle happened. The wall behind the idol of Sri Krishna cracked creating an opening even as the idol, facing east, turned to west thus enabling a yearning Kanakadasa to see the idol. Kanakadasa was spiritually fulfilled even as the Brahmins were wonderstruck. I peered into the “Kanakana Kindi” from under the newly built temple tower and saw the idol, facing the “Kindi” which now is a small square window. Later I went to the temple from the main door and there too I saw the idol facing the devotees.

Incidentally, there was a controversy about the demolition of the old dilapidated tower and building of the new tower from the Kuruba community. They feared closing of the “Kanakana Kindi” making this construction a ruse. Nothing of the kind has happened. The “Kindi” is there with a sign “Kanakana Kindi” engraved in Kannada but thoughtlessly painted in snuff colour which makes it almost invisible.

The local language is Tulu and the name “Udupi” is apparently the English version of the original Tulu name “Odipu”. Just as Madikeri in Kodagu became Mercara or even Kodagu became Coorg to make the native names easy on the tongue of our English rulers.

The temple was established by Madhvacharya, propounder of Dvaita (Dualism) Philosophy as against Shankaracharya's Advaitha (Monotheism) school of thought. There was another school of philosophical thought known as Vishishtadvaita propounded by Ramanujacharya (of Melukote in Mandya District).

As is common, there is a legend behind every temple in our country and there is one behind the establishment of Udupi Sri Krishna temple too. Since it is too familiar, let me not inflict it on my readers here. However, what is of significance is the management skill and expertise of the founder of the temple Madhvacharya. Dharmasthala Heggade, who has set up management colleges, may do well to teach his students the management sutras put in place by the founder of Krishna Temple which has been working so well for over 500 years without corruption, without violation of the traditional rituals, practices and more importantly without any major controversy that threatened its smooth functioning. Of course, only till there came Sri Sugunendra Theertha Sripada of Puttige Mutt who, when I met him on 17th evening, was still fasting in protest against excluding him from the Paryaya celebration.

After consecrating the idol, Madhvacharya selected eight acolyte Sanyasis from the eight neighboring villages around Udupi, set up Mutts around the temple for each of them which are known as Ashtamutts (eight Mutts). These young Sanyasis were taught Sanskrit, Vedas and other Hindu scriptures thus preparing them to head the Mutt and perform puja personally to the idol of Sri Krishna at the temple in rotation of two months. However, this was made into two years around 16th century by Sri Vadiraja of Sode Mutt and the practice continues as Paryaya. Interestingly these eight Mutts were given the names of the respective villages — 1. Kaaniyur, 2. Pejawara, 3. Palimaru, 4. Adamaaru, 5. Krishnapura, 6. Puttige, 7. Shirooru, 8. Sode. It was the Sode Mutt Swamiji, the youngest among the eight Swamijis at age 21, Sri Vishwavallabha Theertha Sripada who took over the Paryaya on 18th January 2012 for which I was also a witness!

It was the 246th Paryaya since the temple was founded. Now on, for the next two years Sode Mutt Swamiji in Paryaya should not leave Udupi Krishna Mutt and venture out. All his activities are restricted to the area within the Car Street (Ratha Beedhi) around the temple. A good management principle indeed. I would recommend this kind of principle being applied to our Ministers and Government officials to make them focussed on their work of serving the Aam Admi, their Janata Janardhana, just as the Paryaya Swamiji is made to serve Lord Krishna!

Vadiraja Sripada of Sode Mutt (1522 AD) was said be so divinely powerful the belief is that it was due to his grace the popular local vegetable of Udupi “Matti Gulla”, green in colour and round in shape, grows abundantly here and used in the temple kitchen.

Part 1 | Part 2

By K. B. Ganapathy
Editor in Chief
e-mail: kbg@starofmysore.com
Courtesy: Star of Mysore