Not to disappoint any in the choice of the cottage located at different points far removed from each other, the keys were heaped together and we were asked to pick one each. Soon, most of us were out of our huts and on to the sand, golden sand without a blade of grass anywhere. The western sun was on the decline, the blood - red disc sinking at the faraway horizon, throwing mystical, ethereal glow on the sands. It was a sight for Gods to see! And we were climbing the sand mountain towards a solitary hut built upon it. Photo - session for the group here, even as coffee and biscuits were served by the Resort staff. Except for one young couple, we were the kings and queens of all that we surveyed. Our cup of joy was overflowing. Soon, sitting around a bonfire, our glasses of Johnnie Walker too began to overflow before we moved to the Arab tent for dinner and then to our huts — a misnomer for the luxury room that it was.
Khimsar Sand Dunes, as I said, was a delight. The overnight stay was comfortable and we were ready for a desert safari early in the morning by jeep. After driving a very long distance through the arid land, interspersed with farmers' houses that looked like pillboxes and some thatched huts with sesame (til), mustard and cotton cultivation at random, we were able to sight some animals. They were antlers, spotted deer, chinkara (which is the State animal of Rajasthan), Black buck and, of course, the Neelgai (that looked like our cattle with minor physical differences and distinct colour). Though not a bird - watcher of any kind (!) I was looking for the celebrated and endangered great Indian Bustard, the special tall bird but found none. It was an expensive ride for every one though the fun we had was compensation enough. We had leisurely bath and change of dress for the late breakfast, ready to leave for the 16th century Khimsar Fort.
It is one of the most beautiful living Fort property I have seen and should be the envy of many Princes and Nawabs. Major part of it was of later construction where the hotel rooms are. The fort is partly occupied by Thakur Omkar Singh, said to be the 17th direct descendant of the founder Rao Karamsi. Probably the Britishers for reasons of difficulty in pronouncing the name must have made it Khimsar, I guess. The remaining part of the fort with some addition is converted into a beautiful 5 - Star Hotel. As we moved in, we knew that the New Year eve was going to be great — the place, ambience, facilities, grandeur, the liveried waiters at your beck and call wearing a smile and humbling themselves all the time with a disposition of being “always at your service Sir”.
As there was time, we got out to survey the fort, every nook and corner ending up on turrets. We discovered a huge moat on three sides, except at the front gate area, now with growth of trees and bushes carefully nurtured and protected giving the fort a green cover all round. I was reminded of Pearl S. Buck's novel "Good Earth," where she writes about the scum of the society, poor and the wretched living around the Palace of the rich and the Warlords of the ancient China. As I mentioned earlier the town around this beautiful property was dirty, no underground drainage and full of garbage.
31st December 2010. As the evening was closing in there was a nip in the air that brought our winter - wears out while ladies wrapped themselves with their newly bought shawls. Arrangements were under way for the gala New Year evening — bonfire in the open air where a band would play at the Amphi Theatre near the old ruins with Rajasthani folk songs after 8. 30 pm. DJ at Raj Mahal in the darkness rent by the flashing spot lights and psychedelic lights after 10.30 pm. Dinner, however, was ready from 7.30 onwards.
We men, excepting some, decided to get charged to kick out the corrupt 2010 and to welcome 2011 with music, dance and hope. The music came on, so also the Rajasthani folk songs by its unique beats and rhythms that would make even the trees around to dance. Sadly I saw, for sometime, only a child dancing. I though I would give company and soon others moved in, later our Mysore group too turned frolicsome to the last person deserting the warmth of the burning fire they were sitting around. Wah! Music of the spheres and dance of the Kinnaras! Some moved over to DJ area after dinner. As for us we sincerely and happily welcomed 2011 and now we must see if the New Year would be less corrupt, less violent and more peaceful. Looking at today's city bandh and Rasta Roko in our State, it does not seem so.
The next day we were at Jodhpur, the Sun City. Halfway we stopped at Ossian to see a Jain temple atop a hill, climbing up and up along with some visitors and pilgrims. Dirty as expected. Rajasthan seems to be full of Jain temples, even though all the kings were Hindus. I was told there is a Sachchiya Mata Temple here, special for Marwaris all over the world — very sacred for them. One of the best Jain temples I have seen anywhere in India is the Dilwara marble temple at Mount Abu.
Jodhpur seemed to be a better city with good roads and less garbage. Known as the “Sun City”, it was founded in 1459. Jodhpur was, earlier during Moghal days, known as Marwar (not to be confused with Mewar). There are two cities in Jodhpur. The old city is a walled one with eight gates. The new city is outside where the descendents of the Royal family live. Rao Jodha of Rathore clan founded it; hence the name Jodhpur and they claim to be decedents of Lord Rama. Well, they may as well implead themselves in the on going case about the ownership of Ayodhya!
The old Mehrangarh fort is mind - boggling. Seeing it is believing. Though similar to other forts, yet it is distinct in many ways. It is built on a 125 meter high hill. And from the ground floor it was 26 floors high with different levels. No wonder there is a lift to take you up and down. From the top of the fort if you look at the houses below, you will find some houses painted blue while others are painted with the common colours. Our guide says, the houses of Brahmins are painted in blue, as per the king's orders, to identify them from others in the locality. The practice, however, is not there now, exceptions apart.
The royal family lived in this fort till the Umaid Bhawan (Palace) was built between 1929 - 1942 by Maharaja Umaid Singh. It is a beautiful red - stone massive palace. In one portion the Maharaja lives and the remaining two third of the palace with nearly 300 rooms has been converted into a hotel. We, however, stayed at the Bal Samand Lake Palace and Garden Retreat, more a Resort than a hotel located in an area of 300 acres. There, no doubt is a palace hotel too but we stayed in rows of rooms that were originally horse - stables. How clever and intelligent the Maharaja is, we were wondering. He calls these rooms as Garden Rooms. Very comfortable indeed. Jodhpur is said to be an ideal place to buy handicrafts and also ethnic gold, silver and diamond jewellery specially known as Kundan.
These Rajputs are great legendary warriors, a bulwark against the Muslim marauders of the early centuries but seemed to have reconciled to the powers of the Moghuls and later the British. Among the Moghuls it was Akbar who seemed to have tamed and harnessed the Rajputs to bolster his empire. He was able to do so by marriage alliance and by incorporating Rajput – forces into his own army.
In the 1580s, Akbar took as one of his wives Jodha Bai, the sister of the ruler of Jodhpur. She became a powerful influence on Akbar that she persuaded Akbar to give up certain Muslim customs like “beef eating, use of garlic, onion and the wearing of a beard”. According to Abul Fazl, the author of the 17th century Ain – e - Akbari, the reason for Jodha Bai disapproving the last three things — garlic, onion and beard — could be because "they are inconvenient in kissing." It may be recalled that Akbar had also married the eldest sister of Raja Bharamal of Amber (Jaipur), mother of Jehangir. Man Singh, who later became the General of Mughal army following his defeating Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar (Udaipur - Chittor), was the grandson of Raja Bharamal.
Be that as it may, history records that it was only the rulers of Mewar who remained as aloof as possible from Moghuls, even after the sack of Chittor Fort (Udaipur) which led to the death of nine thousand Rajput Princesses by burning themselves in the underground palace to avoid dishonour.
During the advent of the British, Udaipur kings and princes maintained the same aloofness with the English also, unlike other princes.
Well, there is much more to see and experience in Rajasthan, one of the best tourist destinations we have.
