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Kodagu Safari: Pleasant and Unpleasant

Click here to go to the main page of Star Of Mysore.
Click here to go to the main page of Sri. K.B.Ganapathy.

Please send your opinions, feedbacks, articles to shshenoy at yahoo.com

God created the world in six days and rested on the seventh day — Sunday. Why God chose Sunday to rest, only God will know. Probably for the same reason the Christians pray on Sunday and Government and private offices have their weekly holidays on Sunday.

Prayer or rest, we usually look for a break from our routine work – a - day life. That was how I escaped from my labour - oriented jail called Mysore to the womb of nature in Kodagu on 18th, 19th and 20th of this month. The word womb is very significant, for that is where we all came from. And while there, we were all safe and secure, free of all worries, till we came out crying. As we grew up, the cry became a complaint about the world outside where we were willy - nilly forced to work and live. Naturally, getting back into another kind of womb, the pristine womb of nature, not yet spoiled by human activities, is not a bad idea.

That was the reason why I was gone away to Kodagu and there into a village about 115 kms from Mysore. It was no ordinary, crowded, dirty, dusty village we commonly see. Covered with verdant paddy fields, coffee estates, surrounded by sky kissing tall trees of the forest which is part of the Western Ghat, it is blessed with a river known as “Barapole” and many streams. The name of the village is “Parakatageri” (Pookala). The destination was a holiday home known as “Kadama Kolli”. The home belongs to a youngster by name Suju Ponnappa and his ex - serviceman brother Nanda.

Though 115 kms from Mysore via Hunsur, Gonikoppal, Ponnampet, Hudikeri, T. Shettigeri, Birunani and the destination Parakatageri, it is not really too long a distance by car, jeep or SUV. However, once you reach Ponnampet, you will experience much difficulty as the road is bad. Driving is not only hazardous but also punishing. We can see asphalts ripped, road poke-marked with potholes, strewn jelly stones and irregular, sharp road edges, making the driving tiresome. It leaves very little room to manoeuvre the vehicle, either to move forward or to allow the oncoming vehicles to pass by.

Small mercy that a stretch from the tea estate is indeed well asphalted and in good condition. The home stay destination is at the dead end of this road. One could see Kerala State from the nearby hill top. Fortunately, the Kadama Kolli holiday home has not metamorphosed into a Holiday Resort with purely commercial ambitions and trappings. The owner’s home, with a little modification for dining purpose, is where one will stay. However, there are a couple of cottages perched on the escarpment of the hill or a mound in the open area. The gurgling sound of a flowing stream is the 24 x 7 music that no one there can miss nor avoid.

I learn that only in the heat of mid - summer around April - May the flow of water is reduced and the music of the stream is muffled. We found, walking bare foot or with suitable footwear in this stream, except during monsoon, for more than a kilometer into the dark forest of the hill, is both a joy and a drill that you will cherish. The interesting feature of this stream with mirror - like clear water is that it is laid with pebbles, stones of different shapes and also slippery rocks visible under the flowing waters with strong currents at some points and mini water falls at others.

Understandably, you do not find any aquatic life like fish, tortoise or even water snakes in the shallow flowing water. However, down below, there is a swimming area where you can see some fish. For the River Walk, as I would like to call it, the young owners of the home would volunteer to accompany if you wish and it is advisable to have one of them with you.

These days we have tourism of different types like Monsoon Tourism, Medical Tourism etc., and this place seems ideal for Monsoon Tourism as well. Being a place with highest rainfall like another couple of places in Kodagu, one observation I made was that there were not many birds and I could hardly hear the sound of singing birds, leave alone spotting them. Even wild animals are a rarity here. However, the Nagarahole Games Sanctuary, the beautiful waterfalls of Iruppu, Coorg White Water Rafting facility are just an hour’s drive from here. Certainly, it is not a cold place, except probably during winter of December - January. And there is electricity and the Linemen are well looked after! Did you get me Steve?

The evenings can be spent in a spirited manner around a bonfire under a huge thatched bamboo hut. You can have your booze, sing your songs or play your instrument and dance your way to bliss or into somebody’s heart if you so please.

As far as food is concerned, we found the ethnic fare on the table, which is as it should be for a holiday home. Since the owners are Kodavas by race, they have their own speciality food items prepared primarily with white rice. For breakfast you can relish the flattened bread made of rice known as "Akki Rotti" or rice dumplings or rice balls known as "Kadambut". Even better, another steam cooked dish called "Paputtu" to be eaten with egg or meat or veg curry.

Well, drinking tea will be an insult to coffee growing land. No matter, you see a patch of tea estate on your way. Apart from all these, the most talked about and admired Kodagu food delicacy on the table is still pork curry (pandi curry) which I learn is prepared only on request. Beef, of course, is taboo.

Some years ago, I had been to a spiritual centre in North India where I found some isolated places on a hillock set up for those who are into meditation or yoga practice. There are some places here too ideal for such purposes, may be during summer. But then, I am afraid people come here to rest and freak out in the evening rather than to meditate. All the same, why not give the visitor one more choice to visit the place.

Here is the address:
Kadama Kolli,
Parakatageri (Pookala) Village and Post,
Coorg District, Karnataka
Pin: 571249

Phone: 08274 - 316295, 239395,
Mobile: +91 9343033130, 9379456357.

e-mail: sujaponnappa@yahoo.co.in
Website: www.kadamakolli.com
www.kadamakolliatcoorg.com

While on the subject of Kodagu, I cannot but express my regret about the total neglect of this once C - State of India by the Karnataka Government, ever since Kodagu was amalgamated with Karnataka in 1956.

The roads to Kodagu from other districts and from the bordering Kerala State are so bad that it will be an apology to call them roads. Wonder what the local people's representatives, MP, MLAs, ZP members, Taluk Panchayat, Village Panchayat members and Town Panchayat members are doing. Thanks to M. C. Nanaiah, former Minister and present MLC, who managed to get funds from NABARD during his days in power. Some remote areas of Kodagu, where people would reach only by foot, got motorable roads like for example to Mandalpatti, about 28 kms from Madikeri in the north and Birunani - Parakatageri in the south. This was many years ago and the roads at present are in ruins. It is not surprising, therefore, that Nanaiah sees no hope nor any future development for Kodagu.

I know people of Kodagu are indeed hard working and law abiding by tradition. Obviously, they don't expect any subsidy or support from the government, provided the government gives them just two infrastructural facilities — good roads, even to faraway villages and power supply without frequent power cuts. I am sure, people of Kodagu will turn the district into a paradise and a model for all other districts in India.

The development of the district will not be possible at all for another 100 years if these two basic and very fundamental requirements are not met. Once this is done, the government need not bother about providing water, health care, job security etc., to the people because private entrepreneurs will immediately step into these areas taking advantage of good roads and uninterrupted quality power supply.

Tailpiece:
This is a lateral thought. Those who go trekking in Himalayas are given a beautifully designed certificate as shown in the picture. Would it not be a good idea if those who run holiday homes also give a similar memento to those who visit them?

By K. B. Ganapathy
Courtesy: Star of Mysore

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