Every year during Ashada, Chamundi Hill, which is beautiful and serene during monsoon, suddenly turns into a high decibel smoggy mound. But not this year, thanks to the District In - charge Minister, effective local administrators and strict Police personnel.
While many of us complained that private vehicles were not allowed to Chamundeshwari temple atop the Hill on Ashada Fridays, the result of doing so has been breathtaking, literally. The air is cleaner, unlike before.
And every year Ashada is a terrible time for the Hill. The road to the temple is scattered with plastic plates, cups, chips packets and bottles. On top of the Hill, chaos ensues — there is an increased presence of stray dogs, thousands of people with their cars, hundreds of children crying and a few sitting on the edges relieving themselves, women trying to push through while dearly holding on to their sarees, taxi drivers screaming at each other and the cops standing confused and screaming, overwhelmed with the devotees’ lawless attitude and aggression.
But this time, there was none of that. No traffic, no parking rage, no dearth of space. Ashada Friday atop the Hill looked serene and free of chaos. The road to hilltop too was spared the barrage of plastic.

Like many Mysoreans, I too am part of a group that walks up the Hill, usually all the way to the top during monsoon and winters. Yesterday, vehicles were directed to park at the helipad from where free buses were plying the devotees to the Hill very effectively. We chose to walk instead. At 5. 30 am, while we were walking on the road, we heard a Policeman screaming, looking frantic and suddenly the dreaded political lights appeared; the CM’s entourage with its lights and whistles were zooming in.
They sped past us, driving dangerously like they were on an unexplainable emergency mission. We thought it would take a while for all the cars to pass, but surprise. None of the usual “hanger on” cars were allowed, not even BJP party workers. Only the CM and his official entourage were allowed up the Hill. Also another reason could be that since it was early in the morning, most political chamchas couldn’t be troubled to wake up early to hover around their political masters and fill up TV screens and Press photos.
Within a few minutes, we got back to our walk up the Hill from the Nandi statue side. The walk towards Nandi statue is better as the traffic is less, greenery is more, and air much cooler. And just as we were appreciating the government’s firm decision and timely execution in making this Ashada pollution - free, the conversation came to a startled halt as we heard a sudden shrill scream. We thought one of the devotees had a run-in with a leopard! Soon we realised it was a loudspeaker having starting trouble and then a devotional song began with heavy, jarring instruments in the background. Yes, air pollution may have been reduced but ear pollution had just begun in full force.
This shrill manifestation of humans’ excessive affection to god in the form of recorded devotion is indeed intriguing. Funnily enough, the song that was playing had lyrics which said, “Chamundeshwari, you are the destroyer of evil doers and protector of the moral ones.” We smiled thinking if this really came true, half the population atop the Hill at that very moment would be wiped out.
It makes us wonder, what is it with religion and noise? Almost all religions have some form of noise in rituals or expression of devotion. Songs, of course, are not noise but there are bells, chest - beating, beating of gongs, shrill readings, etc. Religion is about self - discovery, introspection and change, things that usually happen in the presence of silence or a soothing ambience. It makes us wonder if any god really cares how loud we play songs in their praise. We are probably giving even god a headache, along with the rest of the population who may be in the hospital, classroom or at work.
Chamundi Hill is beautiful; it is the best topographical accident that has happened to this city. Yes, it is the home of Goddess Chamundeshwari; yes, too many people want to visit her, but it does not mean we have to dirty her home and shatter her ears. Why play loud music that jars and disturbs peace in the Hill when it can be made a serene affair with soothing hymns and lamps instead of fixing speakers all along the steps and making it seem like a carnival, which it is not?
May be next year the government can, if not stop the music, then at least play softer music or just the “Om” chant to keep the devotees devotionally pepped up.
Then there is the show of devotion during Ashada — women struggling and sweating while lighting candles. It is a sight that makes you pray that their wishes come true instead of your own, so they won’t have to suffer this next year. But then if their wishes came true, then they will continue to double their efforts next year, which means more tealight candles (candles with metallic bases), more pollution.
May be next year they can sell mud lamps. Yes, they are a little harder to light than tealight candles, but then it’s about devotion; the harder it is, better the chances of one’s prayers being answered? No?
While we walkers were on the way to the temple to offer our prayers, we were overwhelmed with the devotion and colours all around us. But then we saw something, which made us squirm with guilt — guilty of being just modern, urban English - speaking, drawing room moralists. Because we saw another form of devotion.
We saw an older man ahead of us taking something from his cloth bag in a plastic cover and throwing it over to the side of the Hill. We thought it was some kind of religious promise he was fulfilling. But as we got closer, we noticed he was throwing seeds. We stopped and spoke to the man. R. Jayaram, a cotton yarn merchant near K. T. Street, believes in god, in religion and more importantly in Mother Nature. He does not wait for Ashada or for World Environment Day to do his bit for Mother Nature. He uses only cloth bags and collects wet seeds in a plastic cover, which he takes back home.
It seems he and his friends collect seeds of fruits they have consumed through the week and then, on Fridays, walk up the Hill and throw these seeds. They have been doing it for eight years! He said, “Mother Nature is our god, Chamundeshwari is in every tree that is on this Hill and more than candles and devotional songs, she needs trees to protect her, protect us and it also makes her home beautiful.” Noble words from the mouth of a modest man, with seeds of hope sprinkling from his hands.
Yes, it was the best sight and sound we had experienced in Chamundi Hill in a long time. And probably the best display of devotion and love for Goddess Chamundeshwari.
May be Jayaram is right; Goddess Chamundeshwari does not care for candles, incense sticks or loud music. Maybe all she wants is for us to keep her home clean, quiet and serene. Is that too much to ask?